In Dà Huángjuéshù Wān, Yúdòng Town, Bāxiàn, in the golden autumn of September, the air was a blend of the fresh fragrance of new rice and the perfume of the earth, further permeated with a rich festive atmosphere.
People had just finished the demanding work of the autumn harvest. Grain taxes had been paid, and the weather had been favorable and smooth this year, so a sense of joy from the abundant harvest was evident on everyone's faces.
Xiao family's blue brick house with grey tiles looked particularly striking under the autumn sun. The windows were bright and clean, adorned with vibrant red paper-cuts of 'Magpies perching on plum blossoms' and 'Bountiful harvests' meticulously crafted by Wén Yúnshū's clever hands.
The courtyard was swept clean, and the newly bought furniture exuded a mixed scent of tung oil and wood.
Today was not only the housewarming banquet – the "Housewarming Banquet" – for this new home, but also the first birthday of Wén family's most cherished treasure, Xiao Zhen. Two celebrations in one! According to old customs, this ceremony had to be conducted with particular solemnity.
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Just as the sky began to show the pale white of fish belly, the Wén family's home was already brightly lit and bustling with activity.
The hired kitchen helpers, daughters-in-law, and aunts squeezed into the temporarily erected kitchen shed, their chopping, meat-grinding, and chatting sounds merging into one.
The large steamer was filled with steaming rice, and several large iron pots were fired up simultaneously: one stewing pork trotters, one frying tripe, and one deep-frying crispy pork balls.
The stove area was piled high with unfinished dishes for the "Eight Great Bowls" and "Nine Dou Bowls": steamed pork with preserved vegetables (both savory and sweet), braised pork, steamed meat with rice flour, stuffed bowls (egg dumplings, meat balls, etc.), braised pork hock, whole fish, diced braised pork, and so on.
In the Chongqing countryside of the late 1970s, such a lavish banquet was the highest standard of hospitality, showcasing the hosts' popularity and strength.
Birthday banquets for one-year-olds usually had more female guests, but since the Xiao family was combining it with the housewarming celebration, it was essentially a full family mobilization.
In Chongqing rural areas, there used to be a tendency to compete in hosting banquets. For example, if one family hosted 20 tables and another hosted 30, it indicated that the latter family had better connections and influence in the area!
This wasn't about competing on cost, like "I hosted a banquet for 100 yuan, but you hosted one for 200 yuan."
It was mainly about competing in terms of the hosts' local popularity, social connections, and mutual courtesies – in other words, how good a family's reputation and network were locally.
According to the old custom of "Housewarming," relatives and friends would "add to the kitchen."
Close relatives, such as Zhāng Dàqìng's family and the two paternal aunts' families, mostly brought practical household items: Zhāng Dàqìng's family gifted a pair of brand-new enamel basins and a thermos flask; the elder paternal aunt's family gave several kilograms of superior noodles and a thick piece of cotton cloth; the younger paternal aunt's family, being better off, even managed to obtain an "Industrial Coupon" through someone, allowing the Wén family to buy something they desired.
Neighbors and Wén Dàlù's apprentices mostly sent practical gifts like bowls, chopsticks, rice, flour, and cured meat. All gifts were adorned with small red paper slips for good luck.
Wén Yúnshū held a small notebook, with Wén Yīng assisting her, meticulously recording everything in the "gift register." These favors would need to be reciprocated in the future.
Wén Yúnshū dressed her son, Xiao Zhen, in a brand-new outfit: a small jacket and pants made of red silk with a blue lining, hand-stitched by his maternal grandmother, Zhāng Yànméi. On his feet were tiger-head shoes, with lifelike tiger embroidery done by his second maternal aunt. Around his neck hung a jade amulet for safety, gifted by Wáng Shíjiàng. His forehead was dabbed with a red dot made from a mixture of pot bottom ash and cinnabar by his maternal grandmother, known as "disfiguring," said to ward off evil and make the child easier to raise.
Once dressed, Xiao Zhen looked exactly like a lucky charm from a New Year's painting.
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As the sun climbed higher, guests arrived continuously, carrying large bags and bundles.
Before entering the courtyard, there was a small ritual: particularly close elder relatives, like Zhāng Dàqìng and Wáng Shíjiàng, were warmly pulled by the hosts to be the first to "step over the threshold," while saying auspicious phrases like "Stepping on gold and silver land, climbing the ladder step by step," symbolizing bringing good luck and stability to the new home.
Xiao Zhen, held by his mother, welcomed guests at the door, smiling with his gummy mouth at everyone he saw. His little hands offered greetings, and the red envelopes he received (wrapped in red paper, usually containing ten or twenty cents, with close relatives possibly giving fifty cents or one yuan) stuffed his small bib full.
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Before the luncheon, the most anticipated "Zhuā Zhōu" (First Birthday Divination) ceremony was held in the main hall.
A brand-new red cloth was spread on the floor beneath the octagonal table (symbolizing grounding and a solid foundation), with a carefully selected array of items placed upon it:
Stationery category: A fountain pen (representing culture), an old book (representing knowledge), an abacus (representing calculation, also scholarly).
Tool category: Wén Dàlù's woodworking square ruler (representing craftsmanship, ingenuity), a small hammer (representing labor).
Food category: A white steamed bun with a red dot, prepared by Zhāng Yànméi (representing no worries about food or clothing), a small piece of cured sausage (representing a prosperous life).
Currency and artifact category: A five-cent coin wrapped in red paper (representing wealth), a small personal seal (contributed by Wáng Shíjiàng, representing power and status).
Symbolic category: A small scale placed by the younger paternal aunt, Xiāo Zhèngyún (representing fairness, business), and a toy gun (representing protecting the country like his father).
A circle of people gathered, holding their breath in anticipation. Wén Yúnshū placed the newly dressed Xiao Zhen in the center of the red cloth and softly said, "Zhen Wa'er, go and grasp your future!"
The little one sat in the middle, his dark, shiny eyes curiously surveying the dazzling array of items around him.
He first walked towards the White Rabbit Candy bun, picked it up, and squeezed it, eliciting laughter from everyone: "Food is paramount for the people; it's practical!"
But he quickly put down the bun, his gaze drawn to the sparkling fountain pen and the small personal seal. He crawled over and, without hesitation, grabbed the fountain pen with one hand, holding it tightly. His other hand was also busy, as he scooped up the small personal seal into his embrace. He also picked up the small scale, trying to balance it on his shoulder, but it slipped, so he picked it up again and balanced it on his small shoulder. He seemed very satisfied with his choices, hugging the pen and seal, giggling at the crowd.
"Good! One hand for scholarship, one hand for the seal, and he even knows how to weigh things (referring to the small scale)! This child is destined to be a cultural official, holding the reins of power, and able to weigh pros and cons!" Wáng Shíjiàng's voice boomed, his interpretation drawing thunderous applause.
Zhāng Dàqìng also laughed, "He'll be more accomplished than his father! Zhèngtáng wields a gun, but our Zhen Wa'er will wield a pen and hold the seal in the future!"
This "Zhuā Zhōu" result made Wén Dàlù and Zhāng Yànméi beam with joy, feeling all their hard work was worthwhile.
After the "Zhuā Zhōu," there was a simple "Shì'er" (First Taste of Solid Food Ritual) segment.
Maternal grandmother Zhāng Yànméi brought a small bowl of specially cooked soft noodles mixed with minced meat and oil droplets, feeding it to Xiao Zhen, symbolizing the child's formal departure from purely liquid food and his embarkation on a journey of experiencing life's myriad flavors.
The little one ate with gusto, marking a perfect prelude to the birthday banquet.
However, in Eastern Sichuan, there's another custom. Since the little Zhen Wa'er's father was absent and his paternal grandfather had passed away long ago, this step was skipped – "Smearing Pot Bottom Ash." It's similar to smearing cake on a birthday nowadays; everyone just enjoys the gathering of friends and family.
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The banquet officially began. According to Eastern Sichuan custom, elders with high generations/status and seniority sat at the "Top Eight Seats" (the main table in the hall), with other guests seated in order of closeness of relationship.
Every table had a fish, and the fish head was always oriented towards the main guest or the eldest person, symbolizing "respect" and "abundance." This fish was often the last dish to be touched, also symbolizing "year after year of abundance."
During the meal, toasting was indispensable, from Wén Dàlù, as the head of the family, toasting everyone, to Wén Yúnshū holding her child to toast the elders, and then among peers toasting each other, the atmosphere was lively.
The sorghum wine was fragrant and strong, and the sounds of "drawing lots" and giving commands echoed.
There was an amusing little interlude: before the meal officially started, a young man responsible for serving dishes (usually a junior relative) would deliberately drop a pair of chopsticks on the floor. Someone nearby would immediately exclaim loudly, "Happy (chopsticks falling)!"
This homophone served as a playful wish for happiness for both hosts and guests. This act, called "Dropping Chopsticks," is a common way to bring good fortune at banquets in Sichuan and Chongqing.
Xiao Zhen also had his own designated seat – a high chair.
A small bowl was placed before him, filled with the soft noodles and deboned fish carefully prepared by his maternal grandmother. He waved his small spoon, eating enthusiastically. Although his face and body were smeared with oil, his satisfied little expression became the most vivid scene at the banquet.
The banquet lasted from noon until the afternoon, when the sun began to set. Guests enjoyed themselves and gradually departed, leaving behind a courtyard full of festivity and a "battlefield" of cleanup.
Despite the exhaustion, looking at the newly decorated home and listening to the blessings of relatives and friends, everyone in the Wén family felt their hearts filled with aspirations for the future.
This double celebration, meticulously organized according to old customs, was not just about treating relatives and friends with delicious food, but also about incorporating blessings, gratitude, and expectations for a new life through various rituals.
It marked a solid, warm new beginning for Wén Yúnshū and her son, Xiao Zhen, and enshrined the entire family's most beautiful wishes for Xiao Zhen, a child born into love.
Far away in the military barracks in Nanjing, Xiāo Zhèngtáng, though unable to participate personally, his endeavors and this family's resilience seemed to converge across the distance at this moment, jointly illuminating the path forward.
As night fell, Wén Yúnshū held her sleeping son, lying on the new bed filled with the scent of wood. Moonlight streamed through the new window lattices, bringing peace and tranquility. The story of their home had turned a brand-new page.
On the third day after the banquet, Xiāo Zhèngtáng's package was finally delivered to Dà Huángjuéshù Wān. Wén Dàlù and Zhāng Yànméi were essentially tied down to their youngest daughter's home by the little guy, Zhen Wa'er.
Opening the package, he found letters and photos inside. The 20-and-a-half-year-old Xiāo Zhèngtáng was even more robust, likely due to the relatively better food in the military and consistent training at school.
Upon opening the package, Xiao Zhen tasted the rare "White Rabbit Candy" from Shanghai for the first time, along with desirable chocolates and Swiss candies – rare imported goods. The family didn't recognize what chocolate was yet; it was Xiao Zhen, with his quick tongue, who said, "Hershey's chocolate." These imported novelties and good things were gifts from Hé Jīng and Liú Péijī; Xiāo Zhèngtáng didn't have the capability to obtain them.
There were also Nanjing ducks and various pastries from the Jiangnan region. Of course, there was also a dress for Wén Yúnshū, which Liú Péijī brought back from Hong Kong, and rare, brightly colored fabric. Uncle Liú Péijī was very thoughtful, bringing Xiao Zhen two sets of Adidas clothes and shoes. Three pairs of shoes were bought a size larger, suggesting the boy might have the chance to wear Adidas to kindergarten.
Included were also ready-to-wear clothes for the two brothers-in-law, their wives, and prospective parents-in-law, as well as three down quilts. The wool coats for the three grown men, especially, were very much liked by Wén Dàlù.
Hé Jīng mainly provided a large stack of various rare tobacco and alcohol coupons, along with nationally valid radio coupons, bicycle coupons, and Industrial Coupons. For his family, obtaining these items posed no difficulty.
Although Hé Jīng had a bit of the arrogance of someone from a Beijing compound, he didn't show any of it towards Xiāo and Liú.
Twice, he and Liú Péijī had been directly helped by Xiāo Zhèngtáng's contributions.
Xiāo Zhèngtáng's new brick and tile house was eye-catching, but even more so were three plaques: "Home of Glory," "Home of a Second-Class Meritorious Hero," and the most impressive, "Home of Special-Class Meritorious Service."
Now, Wén Yúnshū still received a monthly family allowance and a few coupons personally delivered by the military affairs department – this was all earned by her husband's hard work!